Kutna Hora - a hoot, just round the corner

Just 65 km out of Prague - a one-hour train (or more precisely trains, plural) trip - is Kutna Hora, a city that once rivalled Prague for importance in the Czech kingdom. Originally settled in the 9th century, Kutna Hora has made an important contribution to Czech history. It rose to prominence following the discovery of silver in the region. The silver deposits were so large that at one stage, in about the 14th century, the Czech king was the wealthiest man in Central Europe. Kutna Hora, a relatively small city by modern European standards, has some outstanding features. Perhaps the most impressive structure in terms of history and scale is the exquisite cathedral of Santa Barbara, the construction of which began in 1380 and which still contains frescos from that period. It dominates the city skyline and is approached along a broad boulevarde flanked by statues of the saints connected with Kutna Hora, including Saint Barbara herself.

But the real standout point of interest in Kutna Hora is All Saints Church, some three kilometres outside the city itself. In 1870 a woodcarver was permitted to get creative with the skeletal remains of some 40,000 people (some of whom had died from the various onsets of the plague over the centuries). The result is a church that is absolutely filled with human bones in all sorts of configurations - pyramids of skulls, coats of arms,chalices, crosses and a giant chandelier that hangs from the centre of the chapel. It is all so creative that, as you enjoy the spectacle, you almost forget that these were once living, breathing human beings. We did try to find poor Yorrick among the skulls but, alas, with no luck.

We also visited the former 17th century Jesuit college,now an art gallery. Our final destination was the Church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary, which was the first stone (as against timber) cathedral in Bohemia, built in the 14th century (and recently restored as a UNESCO protected site). We were able to climb the stairs into the area under the roof and view original stone work, as well as having a bird's-eye-view over the nave. We also saw the skeletal remains of another saint who was connected with this church and whose remains were returned to the church by the reigning Pope in 1720. The skeleton is laid out in a glass case, fully dressed and with a face-mask over the skull, but with most of his bones clearly visible.

All in all, it was well worth the effort (a three-kilometre walk each way to and from Prague Station, five trains and a bus)to visit this world-heritage listed royal medieval mining town.

Tomorrow - the Dvorak museum and a visit to the graves of Dvorak and Smetana.