Gradec, graves and grey skies.......

The rain has stopped and the sun has tried to warm up our 17 degree day. After a tram ride to the bus terminal to secure our tickets for Zadar tomorrow we set out to retrace our steps from yesterday in the hope of seeing more, now that the rain has gone. Back to the cathedral to explore the inside. There are some impressive frescoes from the thirteenth century and an ornate tomb of Cardinal Alojzije Stephanic. Outside, the remains of the fifteenth century wall surrounding the cathedral are still present.

From the cathedral, we wandered to Kaptol Square, part of the medieval Upper Town, with buildings from the seventeenth century. We passed through the Stone Gate and arrived at the ‘Virgin and Child’ painting on the wall which was all that remained of the wooden gate after the great 1731 fire destroyed the rest. The locals believe that it therefore possesses magical powers and have set up a shrine in front, where they pray and leave flowers. Next we visited the beautiful Jesuit Church of St Catherine, built in 1620, with very ornate pink and white stucco on the internal walls and a beautiful tromp l’oeil fresco on the northern wall.

On to the thirteenth century St Marks Church, with its colourful tiled roof that was added in 1880. The tiles form the medieval coats of arms of Croatia, Dalmatia and Slavonia. Past Parliament House (fairly plain) and on to the Lotrščak Tower, which was built in the thirteenth century to protect the southern city gate. We watched (and heard!) its cannon fire at noon, as it has every day for the past hundred years. With deafened ears, we rode the 1888 funicular down to the Lower Town with a fellow Aussie couple.

After lunch we ventured two kilometers out of town to the Mirogoj Cemetery. Known as one of Europe’s most beautiful cemeteries, it didn’t disappoint. As there were no cremations in Croatia until about 25 years ago, every body had to be buried. There are hectares and hectares of the most ornate graves, lovingly tended and all set in lush green surroundings and the entire cemetery is surrounded with huge stone walls. We decided to walk back to town and finished our day in a little sidewalk café having afternoon tea and watching the locals quietly passing by.

Although Zagreb is the capital of Croatia, the core of the city consists of the preserved medieval city, known as Gradec and Kaptol, both rich in history, quaint, orderly and relaxing. We have really savoured the slower pace over the past few days and hope this is indicative of Croatian life as we continue on.

Tomorrow, board the bus for our journey westward to Zadar and the Adriatic Sea.